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BARGNS.RG
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1993-06-18
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By Robin Garr
SCENE, Feb. 7, 1987
A tasty California red and an attractive Australian white afford me the
pleasurable opportunity this week to recommend a couple of bargain wines that
follow up on recent columns.
*
Rutherford Hill's 1981 Partner's Selection Napa Valley Merlot, a bargain
red wine that won my 4-star rating in the Jan. 17 column, is no longer in
distribution; you may find a dusty bottle here and there (I saw some the
other day), but I'm told that the winery has discontinued the Partner's
Selection line.
However, another good, inexpensive California Merlot remains available:
1982 Round Hill Napa Valley Merlot ($4.99).
A strong, robust wine that's dry and acidic enough to make an excellent
match with red meat, it's laden with fruit and an attractive vanilla taste of
oak. There's enough puckery tannin to indicate at least five years' potential
for aging, but it's quite drinkable now.
It's an exceptional bargain, fully the equal of many Merlots I've tasted
from California or France at two to three times the price.
*
Sail south across the Great Australian Bight from the rocky beaches of
Australia's southern coast and you'll eventually reach the massive glaciers
that ring Antarctica.
The icy polar blasts that emerge from those regions become mild trade
winds in the latitudes of South Australia, around Adelaide. The region's
climate is something like Northern California, particularly in places like
Coonawarra and the Barossa Valley, where cool, damp winds blow up the coastal
valleys.
From the Padthaway area, a recently planted vineyard region adjacent to
Coonawarra, comes another tasty Australian wine to add to the trio I rated
Jan. 31: A 1985 Hardy Collection Chardonnay from the Thomas Hardy & Sons
winery ($5.49).
This is one of a series of Hardy wines that feature works of Australian
art on the label; it's Michael Shannon's "Summer Landscape near Kapunda," an
impressionistic landscape that reminds me of something by Vincent Van
Gogh.
The Chardonnay, aged six months in French oak, is a tasty one. Its sharp
acidity carries a French accent; its mouth-filling flavor with lush hints of
tropical fruit reminds me of good California whites, while its assertive,
"I'm-all-right-mate" quality is pure Australia.
Round Hill Napa Valley Merlot, 1982. (Mair-lo.) This clear, dark-garnet wine
breathes a good scent of wine grapes and pine needles. Its relatively high
alcoholic content (13.8 percent) adds an assertive bite to its crisp,
mouth-filling flavor. Rich, lingering fruit and a hint of something like mint
is balanced with a taste of oak; substantial tannin shows aging potential,
but it's pleasant now. (4 stars.)
Hardy Collection Padthaway Chardonnay, 1985. (Shar-doe-nay.) This brilliant
greenish-gold wine has an attractive scent of fresh apples and yeast with a
touch of coconut. There's ample fruit, so much it almost seems sweet, and a
tartly, almost tongue-twistingly acidic flavor that's too sharp for sipping
but that makes it a natural with chicken or veal. (4 stars.)
SCENE Wine and Food Critic Robin Garr judges table wines on a one- to
five-star scale determined by quality and value. Write to him with
suggestions or questions about wine and dining in care of The Courier-Journal
and Louisville Times, 525 W. Broadway, Louisville KY 40202, or send Easymail
to 73125,70.